This part started with the separation of body and chassis. It was then time to remove all the dust and debris before I could begin to remove the under body seal. Removing the under body seal was a very time consuming and really boring task that had to be done.

Old pictures will be seen if you follow the link under the pictures.

080702-090308
Nothing has really hapend with the chassi. But some new pictures have been added to show its current stage. I've made a new front support for the body since the old was scrapped.

...with the front apron	Front support	Light surface rust
Nearly finished			Roll cage
	Gearbox mounts

Older pictures

080317-080701
Brake lines and bigger rear cylinders, rollcage, newish shock absorbers and some other stuff was fixed so the chassi is ready to go.

080310-080316
The roll cage is almost finished. The bars that go to the back and some final grinding is still to be made.
I had urethane mounts for the gearbox but since I didn't have the original mount that the rear attach to I decided to make my own solid mount, they will probably be a little noisier but as they hopefully will stiffen up the frame horns further reducing the chance that they bend the comfort level is not important. I made the rear mount out of the original with 25x25 mm square tubing, a little unconventional but I think it will work. The front mount is made out of 10 mm steel plates, which is way over kill but that was what I had at the time and there will maybe some holes drilled in to lighten them.

080303-080309
The main arch in the roll cage is now fitted in the car, the two struts that goes forward are also in place.

080204-080210
I started to modify the front suspension leafs to fit into my new beam which meant I had to cut down them to fit the narrower beam. I made dimples in the end of the springs for the stop screws on the control arms. When they were cut I needed to cut down the steering arms the similar amount. I then fitted the beam on the pan and fitted the front hubs and brakes. With the rear trailing arms and brakes bolted on I fitted the wheels and lowered the car down for the first time since autumn. I the got the body onto the chassi and started with the roll cage.

080128-080203
This week it hasn't been much work in the shop, I've tried on 944 Turbo trailing arms in the back. I will not use these for this season, since I have some ideas for the front suspension.

080121-080127
This week I finished the painting of the chassis. I've put four layers on the underside and 3 layers on the top side, I recon that's enough to withstand the debris and rocks and hopefully keep the rust away at least for a few years. I've painted the spring plates and the bracing for the rear axle. I've also ordered a new front beam from grubenwerk.se, I'm very excited to get my hands on it. At the en of the week I've painted the rear trailing arms brake backing plate and engine valve covers, I was then out of paint.

080114-080120
When the chassis was stripped of the front and rear suspension and all the under body seal was gone the fun of fixing the rust. It had eaten away on both of the jack points so they had to be scrapped and the holes were filled with new wonderful metal. At the front where the body is mounted there was some holes in so they got replaced too.

As this car originally came with swing axle rear suspension and I wanted at least some handling a change to the later style IRS suspension became a clear option. I started with pre-fabricated brackets and with the use of a jig and the actual arms the brackets got welded into position.

Also as a road holding advantage and also protective for the gearbox I fabricated and installed a so called cup-brace. It's supposed to prevent, or at least minimize the damage of wheel hop. Wheel hop is when torque is applied and the engine and gearbox wants to go down a result, the frame horn flex down, when the tire sips the frame horns spring back up in their original position. When the tires grip again it starts over again. My five bar setup is designed to keep the frame horns from bending and try to minimize flex side to side. The torsion tube also got a bar at the outer end of them. This is to take the forces at a hard launch with drag slicks mounted and keeping the torsion tubes from bending forward.

At this stage the chassis is as good as I can get it so now I have to paint it to prevent rusting. I used a paint called POR-15, and I'm really pleased with the result. You have to degrease and etch with special liquids and after that you are ready to paint. The paint is to my believes very easy to work with and it covered the bare metal really good and about 475 ml was enough for four layers on the underside.